Friday, June 6, 2014

A few more photos from Guernsey seem to be required because I put so many of London on that last post. We were on Guernsey for 7 full days, after all. So here you are:


On my first day there we saw these cruise ships as soon as we came out of our B&B. There was a delightful "Taste of Guernsey" fete going on in downtown St. Peter Port and we were asked repeatedly, "Are you from the boat?" We loved answering no!



This is the "Town Church." It's Anglican, old and beautiful, and sits right downtown in St. Peter Port.


London isn't the only place with row houses. What fascinated me was the number of flues in these chimneys: the ones in the center had 16 each! When you realize that each connected to a fireplace you realize how much nicer central heating is!



We were a little lost when we came upon this home. We were walking, after having stumbled on the Dehus dolmen, looking for another very old site so we were in the north of the island. This was a stable, we discovered, but it had been a veg-grower in the past. The island covered with glass greenhouses: Guernsey used to grow zillions of tomatoes in them. Then the market went kaput in the 1970s and they now all stand abandoned. The interior of the island is slowly (probably not so slowly soon) being bought up by the uber-rich who shelter their £s there; Guernsey is the Cayman Island for England. But the people who have houses with a greenhouse just let them fill up with weeds, some of their windows are missing, and we were wondering if there wasn't some way to use the greenhouses somehow.


A parrot tulip about 10" across. Because of its island climate, plants grow like crazy here.


An okay shot that shows just what a bustling port St. Peter Port is. There was constant boat traffic; it was so much fun to be there!


A bit of a bay on the isle of Herm. I loved the tchotchkes that had "Herm is where the heart is," and "There's no place like Herm." (But I didn't buy any. Should have, I think!)


This was on Herm. We had no idea what it was; it had a little window opposite the door but nothing else. Just another old, weird construction. It wasn't alone!


These little alleys serve as streets in the oldest part of St. Peter Port. This shot was taken a few steps down from the top of a stairway with landings that led down to the main street that ran along the water. The sign is for a bakery/sandwich shop called The Roll Bar. Pretty clever.


This building was the market in St. Peter Port for a long time. When it was no longer used for that, the unwise city fathers sold it to private interests who immediately closed it up and the public no longer has access to it. Too bad; it would be a very nice covered market again.


A small garden on Victor Hugo's property. There is apparently another very large one nearby. We missed it.


The "Cup and Saucer" fort. It now houses The Shipwreck Museum, which was very interesting. Circular, of course. It's known for being a place to take great photos of the area.


My attempt at a great photo from the grounds of the Cup and Saucer.


From the other side of the roadway leading to the Cup and Saucer.

And my last shot posted of Guernsey. Now you can go to bed and sleep like a baby; the slide show of "My Vacation" is over. Thanks for looking at it!





My fabulous UK trip included not only the isle of Guernsey, which is apparently a "bailiwick" of Britain, but also a short visit to what was called in my youth, Swinging London. The difference in places could not have been greater!

Alice and I had been some of the only Americans on Guernsey; we encountered one other couple. As such, we felt a bit like rock stars because the Guernseyans (Guernseyites? I think they are/were actually called Sarnians after the old name for the isle) were so impressed that Americans would want to visit their little home. And when they asked why we were there, all we had to say was, "The book," and they knew. It was fun. Most of the other tourists came from Germany, France or England.

In London that was definitely not the case. That city is even more of a melting pot of cultures than NYC! There were so many different languages going on all the time. We stayed in Kensington--great location (1 block from Tube, walking distance to so many sites)--and ate at very good restaurants: Indian, Lebanese, Italian, and passed up Chinese, Japanese, and English. As on Guernsey, however, almost all the waitstaff came from other countries, Eastern Europe most commonly. But the owners/chefs came from the countries of the cuisines. And all the restaurants within a very short walk of our hotel.

Ah, our hotel. This was our street and the navy blue awning was our hotel.


The Internet is a wonder for enabling us to book and pay for our room in advance but for allowing us to see the room, not so much.


We definitely paid for location, location, location. We did not pay for space. My right hand, above, is about 2" from one wall and the other is maybe 8" if I'm being generous. There was no closet, no dresser, nowhere to put our bags. There was a teakettle on a tiny nightstand (not pictured, but at the forefront of the picture), an ingenious method of energy conservation, a television and a fan--2d (American 3d) floor could get very hot and stuffy. The en suite did include a shower and you could turn around carefully in it. The included breakfast we only included one morning because there were better ones to be had close by!

And again we walked. A lot. I'm a huge fan of urban architecture and London does have that. And not the modern NYC type, 

(although I really liked the "sail building!)

but the old-huge-city type: row houses and tucked away little beauties and churches that take your breath away. 

I loved this street. It wasn't far from our hotel.


I decided I could live in this one. Obviously I'd have to be a kept woman.


Construction was everywhere but the powers that be try to be oh, so considerate about covering it tastefully!


St. Paul's, of course. Talk about breathtaking ...


And this is the House of Commons. I'm thinking "Commons" here is NOT the same as "common!"

We walked through beautiful Hyde Park, which reminded me of Central Park, of course: very green, lots of paths to choose from, and lots of people and lots of languages. We ended at Selfridge's department store, of BBC series fame. We wanted just to get a bag with the name on it for a "Mr. Selfridge" fan but they had no idea what we were asking for. So I looked to buy something to get the bag. We were, um, out of our league is the kindest thing to call it. A darling t-shirt for one of my daughters was £75! We did not buy anything.

On to Harrods we bravely went, wanting to find the wonderful food department that's touted in descriptions of the store. Too many people. Too rich for our blood. The decor was amazing: the Pyramid escalator/landing was exquisite. In a store. ??? And we didn't find the food department. Curses.

We did go to the Tower, having been advised that it was worth the trip to see the Crown Jewels. Unfortunately, we estimated the waiting line to be about 4 hrs. long, so we looked at other things. One exceedingly small spiral staircase again set this claustrophobe outside to wait for Alice; apparently that was a good choice on my part! But the feeling of being in the Tower enclosure was indescribable. Oh, history!

And on to more modern themes. The Churchill War Rooms Museum was fascinating. Those who worked there did so for five years, all underground. Dedication, bravery and patriotism kept them there. (I think there was no photography allowed. At least I think that's why I have no pictures of it.)

There was one thing I wanted to see the minute Alice suggested we add a few London days to our trip: the London Eye. (And apparently you always say the whole name, not just "the Eye." I learned.) It was terrific.

A quite large structure, wouldn't you say? The film of it being raised up to vertical was truly impressive! The oddest part of our "rotation" was the fact that you get into your egg--or whatever the compartment is called officially--while the wheel is moving

 A little unnerving, but really very smooth. We planned this one right: we were there for the first rotation and wound up with only 3 other people in our egg! The views were magnificent. 


And even acrophobes might be able to manage it because there is absolutely no sense of motion. Alice and I were both sorry that we didn't buy the photo (that is taken of every egg) of us on the way down, because later the £15 didn't seem like so awfully much. C'est la vie.

It feels like we did so much more in London but I really think these are the main points. If we had been there longer we would have gone to a play in the rebuilt Globe theatre; our river cruise narrator said that the production of Titus Andronicus that is playing this summer is so gory and bloody that people have fainted and have needed to be transported to hospital! Maybe another time. :)

So London does what NYC does: old and new seem to coexist happily

but London's old is something NYC won't ever achieve! We loved our visit and decided this is another place we could come back to. 

But there's so much rest-of-the-world calling. Hmmmmm.




Wednesday, June 4, 2014

This is my lovely sister, Alice, on the waterfront across the street from our B & B in St. Peter Port, Guernsey. Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands, and is unique in that it's far closer to France than to England. But there's no doubt that it is a part of the United Kingdom!

Alice and I went to Guernsey because we both had read The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society, by Mary Ann Shaffer. It's a delightful book, even though it's about the Nazi occupation of the island 1940-1945; I listened to it as an audiobook and just loved it. While Alice read it, I went online to find Guernsey. At least I knew where the English Channel is, so the hunt was shorter! I highly recommend looking at the Visit Guernsey website because that's what absolutely convinced me we needed to go there.

Travel was a nightmare for me, but I think I have it out of my system after writing to United Airlines. And I did get to see the Munich airport; I'd never been in Germany before! Suffice it to say that Alice arrived, as planned, on Friday, and I on Saturday, NOT as planned. So we started our adventure on Sunday.

We walked. A lot. Someone said it was too bad we didn't have a pedometer but I'm glad we didn't. That had the potential for making our forays into quantifiable items, risking them being judged by the number of steps rather than by what they were. We loved every step. St. Peter Port is the biggest city on the island and we walked up and down that city, mostly up. It has what's called The Cliff as part of its topography. The harbour is at the foot of the cliff and the town just kept filling in the space between the water and the rock with buildings. Eventually people began to build on the high part, too. The result is a darling small city with buildings just cheek-by-jowl, many of them dating back 3-6 centuries! Walls are often 2-3 feet thick. And rock retaining walls are everywhere.


I have no idea how old this particular wall is but you can see it wasn't built yesterday. :)

The age and history of the island fascinated us. There have been humans on Guernsey for thousands of years; I think we were told that artifacts have been found dating back to 8,000 B.C. Castle Cornet, somewhat a "newbie" given the age of so many places, has been there since the 13th century and is used up to this day.

There were so many places to see that I think we both could spend another week there. We visited: the Guernsey Museum--small, lovely, well done, AND there was a band concert there the afternoon we were; (We were sure it was just for us.) 

Vale Castle--come upon by mistake, quiet, very old: "evidence suggests has a history stretching back to the Iron Age" (from www.visitguernsey.com);

the Le Dehus dolmen or "passage tomb"--small, pitch dark, impressive (3000-2500 B.C.) but not easily found, and this claustrophobe couldn't enter it; (I put a water bottle against one of its stone to give some perspective, sorry!)

Victor Hugo's home--large, over-decorated (by him) to the nth, great inspirational views, very worth the visit;
 

Castle Cornet--a fortress from the 13th century that is still a military site and which houses museums devoted to various segments of Guernsey's history and its military forces;

the Occupation Museum--small, filled with such interesting materials and information! and the reason we had come to Guernsey at all;

the beautiful nearby isle of Herm--not big enough to be an island (1.5 x <0 .5="" apologies.="" beaches.="" car-free="" for="" formations="" great="" holding="" local="" m="" mi="" my="" of="" one="" p-r="" p="" paper="" prehistoric="" s="" shots="" stone="" the="" those="" tranquil="" walking="" where="">

My photos bring back all the happiness of this trip. I won't bore you with more because one person's travelogue is another's insomnia cure. 

The highest praise I can give to this vacation is that it was everything I hoped it would be. 

Visit Guernsey. (Maybe read the book first.) With or without the book, you really will be glad you did.

P.S. I could add a bit about what we saw in London but as I said, I was trying not to bore you to tears. Let me know if I should add a short post about that bustling city. Thanks!


Friday, May 30, 2014

Okay, so the last time I posted here was, apparently, August 2012. Something momentous must have happened then! I'm not going to look. What I will do is use this space to provide a short summary (I hear you all out there, you know. Saying: Carla short? How much stronger an oxymoron can you make?) of my trip to the isle of Guernsey and to London. I'm here right now just to make sure I can still post here and provide this as a link for you. You're thrilled, right? That's the spirit!

I'll be back later, either tonight or tomorrow.